Many of us fashion folks have been caught up in the battle by Italians for their sovereignty & to have more of a say in the fashion week calender decision making. Get the popcorn out & let the Italain leather & lace fly because Italy is ready for a catwalk fight.
“After a summer of peace, hostilities have resumed between the rival cities of Paris, Milan, New York and London for supremacy in the fashion industry. The latest flashpoint is the catwalk calendar for next September. Milan fashion week has announced dates which clash with those of London. The organisers of London’s shows have been joined by those of New York’s in claiming that this directly contravenes an agreement in 2008, when this problem last flared. Mario Boselli, head of the Italian catwalks’ governing body, claims that the deal was only valid for three years…” READ MORE
“Mario Boselli head of the Camera Nazionale della Moda, however, seems unfazed by the decision. He told WWD, “Italian designers unanimously agreed on the schedule. They showed great solidarity and Italian pride.” And what about the fact that these cities will now all be competing against each other for industry attention? Says Boselli, “Let the best one win.” READ MORE
Let’s be honest, the fashion calendar has been decided by New York for awhile, with everyone else having to fall in line with changes to accommodate Jewish Holidays, Labor Day & other American holidays & needs. The global world of fashion can not be expected to be NY & Anna Wintour’s “Bitch” & it seems Italy has put itself on the line to declare just that. There needs to be changes all around & true genuine respect amongst all parties in their local & global contribution to creating a multibillion dollar industry collectively. Just like America should not be deciding the fate of sovereign nations of the world, the CFDA & Conde Nast editors can not determine the fate of global fashion designers without their full input & consent.
“Anna Wintour and the rest of the Vogue editors at Conde Nast are pissed about Italy’s decision to have Milan Fashion Week start during New York Fashion Week and continue through London Fashion Week. In fact the International chairman of Conde Nast fired off a letter to the Italian Chamber of Fashion that if they don’t change it back to the original schedule, none of his editors will be attending. “They will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier…The best way to avoid having a problem is to maintain the schedule as it is now.“
Mario Boselli, the head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion told WWD:
“We wouldn’t have reconsidered the show dates, but since the equilibrium has been ruptured, we are reflecting and rethinking the situation. Already we thought we were compromising and since New York has decided to set its schedule without consulting us, we are thinking in terms of what is best for us.” READ MORE
This fashion world war has been festering for years with ceasefires that have been declared null & void with aggressors on all sides pushing the boundaries of hems, fashion diva behavior & respect. Italy, one of the greatest producers of fashion with probably the largest number of globally recognizable luxury brands seems to be fighting to reclaim its revered place in the hierarchy of the fashion world’s elite by refusing to kowtow to the demands & desires of the CFDA, Anna Wintour & Conde Nast. With brands like Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana , Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Bulgari, Ferragamo & others being part of the Italian collective, can Conde Nast & the rest of the fashion world really afford to boycott Milan’s fashion week shows in this misguided power move & still stay relevant?
“Italy, home of fashion powerhouses Gucci, Prada and Giorgio Armani, thinks it has been snubbed by one of the fashion world’s most powerful players: Anna Wintour.Designers in Milan face a chaotic crunch as they scramble to fit 88 runway shows into about 70 hours over six days to accommodate the Vogue editor-in-chief’s plans to stay just four days in Milan instead of a full week. Organizers have reshuffled the schedule three times in the past two months as word of Ms. Wintour’s expected travel plans spread through the historic fashion capital. Designers will do whatever it takes to get Ms. Wintour to attend their shows. Her endorsement of a collection not only can lead to a place in Vogue photo shoots, but also tilts the odds that clothing will be worn by celebrities and picked up by retailers. Often, shows don’t start until she slides into her front-row seat…” READ MORE
“The stiletto has put its foot down. In a move that’s angered fashion powerhouses on both sides of the Atlantic, Milan Fashion Week will overlap with fashion weeks in New York and London in September 2012. New York Fashion Week is set to start on Sept. 13, with London beginning on Sept. 21. Milan’s start date? Smack in the middle—on the 19th. As a result, department store buyers and fashion editors will have to choose between attending shows and buying appointments in each of the cities. Fashion editors from Condè Nast, including Vogue’s Anna Wintour, have said they will boycott Milan Fashion Week. The Italian reaction? A shrug: Mario Boselli, head of Italy’s Chamber of Fashion, told Heard on the Runway: “We are not changing our calendar,” he said. “If Vogue editors plan not to come, well, then that’s their loss. I think the Italian fashion shows are unmissible, both in absolute terms and also because of the advertising revenues that the industry generates.” Read More
With bloggers becoming the “soup du jour” in a dying world of print & taking over many coveted front row spots at fashion week, can the usual fashion editors & insiders really claim to be the holy grail of making it or breaking it in fashion anymore? In this digital age- inclusion is more of the direction of the future than the usual fashion industry’s practice of exclusion on many levels. Frankly I missed the days of Full Frontal Fashion & Fashion TV, giving the option & freedom to watch all the fashion week shows in the comfort of my living room or wherever I choose to be in the world, instead of having to worry about if I was going to be amongst the “in-crowd” bestowed with the most coveted fashion week show invites & having to run around in stiletto heels amongst fashion wannabes, elitist editors & socialites, paid celebrity front row guests & many regular folk/local celebrities who are living beyond their means in breaking their piggy banks to get the perfect designer outfits for weeks of their own individual fashion coming out celebrations on concrete runways. I was glad that Youtube filled that void this year, but we need more of that with real fashion commentary instead of just the fake air kisses, celebrity spotting & praises from fashion “stans” who often forget that fashion can be bought by many, but style is exclusively innate. Remember the days when being trendy was not considered chic? Surely Kanye West was not the only designer that showed this year who needed to be put on blast for their lackluster presentation, but I won’t name any names until I have my own show that pays me to do just that-AKA Global Fusion Productions Inc. Presents “Behind The Hype” LOL!
“There has been a complete change this year,” said Kelly Cutrone, who has been organizing fashion shows since 1987. “Do I think, as a publicist, that I now have to have my eye on some kid who’s writing a blog in Oklahoma as much as I do on an editor from Vogue? Absolutely. Because once they write something on the Internet, it’s never coming down. And it’s the first thing a designer is going to see.” Perhaps it was to be expected that the communications revolution would affect the makeup of the fashion news media in much the same way it has changed the broader news media landscape. At a time when magazines like Vogue, W, Glamour and Bazaar have pared their staffs and undergone deep cutbacks because of the impact of the recession on their advertising sales, blogs have made remarkable strides in gaining both readership and higher profiles…” READ MORE
Fashion, much like our global political system has turned into an era of school yard bullies & too big to fail elitists- all trying to flex their cowardly muscles on one another to show who has the biggest sausage in the battle for king of the world status. In the full spectrum of what the world is suffering through, I can’t say that I am not delighted & amused by these elitist crybabies turning on themselves & eventually imploding to set a path for the global fashion industry to start anew in a more inclusive manner where fashion returns to its roots of creativity, innovation, craftmanship & freshness in building its future through young new designers globally- while preserving the history of fashion, rather than the celebrity idol worship of few who maintain & remain[BOXED-IN]. This maybe the best thing that ever happened to the perfectly imperfect world of fashion that can use a wake up call to the reality of the world & finally have a moment of self-reflection & evaluation as they Check their [IN-BOX]!
CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg’s Open Letter To The Fashion Industry AKA Italy-LOL!